John Szabo: 2017 Espressivo

5/5 Value

2017 marks another impressive release of La Stella’s “super Tuscan” style blend, in this case about half cabernet franc, with equal parts cabernet sauvignon, merlot and sangiovese, aged in both barriques and larger puncheons, with just over 1/4 new wood, all told. From the deep, saturated red colour through the expansive nose and broad palate, this is classy and sophisticated red wine. I love the broad spectrum of ripe, dark fruit, floral and wood spice notes, freshly roasted coffee bean, blood and iron, and more, in a complex expression. It has the depth and structure to age into the early ’30s, though also the polish to deliver pleasure far earlier, from 2021/22. A really finely-detailed wine that stands comfortably alongside many of the iconic Tuscan wines that inspired it in the first place, and more than fair value as such.