Gismondi on: 2020 Fortissimo

Tasted three times this month, Fortissimo is as impressive as it is charming. Large format puncheons and Hungarian/Slavonian oak (only 6.6. percent are new) keep the oak influence to a dull roar while allowing what looks like a terrific vintage room to expand in the bottle.

Plums, spiced fruitcake, and dusty, savoury, south Okanagan notes perfectly punctuate its fresh black and red fruit lined with desert scrub and tobacco, adding complexity throughout its long finish. Think richer foods, none better than braised veal shank, osso bucco, or Tuscan roast lamb with a rosemary crust.

The blend is 63% Merlot, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon, 13% Cabernet Franc, and 6% Sangiovese, all grown on Black Sage Bench and in the Osoyoos Lake District. Drink or hold this bargain.