john szabo (MS): 2020 allegretto

La Stella’s pure merlot from the 2020 vintage is a ripe, broad and dense wine yet without excess, full-bodied at 14.6% alcohol though not hot. The first stages of maturity have crept in to transform the fresh fruit into lightly dried, black plum to prunes, black cherry to cherry purée, all spiced up with discreet oak. I like the plump and plush palate, the framing nicely coated with abundant fruit extract, the honesty and forthrightness of it all. It would drink well now with some salty protein at the table, or hold comfortably into the early 2030s. Very satisfying.