A wine should live up to its name and La Stella’s Vivace succeeds. In the great sea of pinot grigio ubiquity there can be some with a distinct energy that roll across the palate in waves. This is such a heart breaker, a “lively” PG that seems so much bigger and of more alcohol volume than it really is. The density of fruit and the balanced relationship with a thickness of acidity is how the breakers are developed, far out to sea and only realized just as they approach the shore. This will tumble over you with sudden haste and find you swimming in its juiciness, albeit a metallic oneand as with the best of northeastern Italy, unctuous to an Adriatic degree. Great fruit and winemaking heed are what make this happen. Drink 2020-2023.
The best Vivace yet manages to feel light and airy in the best expression of Italian pinot grigio, yet there is richness of flavour suggesting B.C./Alsace ripeness as well. It’s hard balance to strike, but done with a sure hand by winemaker Severine Pinte. Expect fairly generous aromas of peach pit, soft dried herbs and croutons. It is light to medium bodied (12.6%) with fine lacy acidity and a vague spritz intrinsic to its liveliness. The flavour depth/length is better than expected, the balance is close to perfect.
“… Delicious in the mouth! Severine does it again! 2019 Vivace is a citrusy wonder with basil, sage and parsley Italian, natch), with juicy acidity, a dab of marmalade and a hint of beeswax texture. The Variety can be so much more charismatic than a critical consensus often suggests. I give you exhibit A.